Flea Control Sydney – How to get rid of Fleas
There are over seventy to eighty species of fleas in Australia, the cat flea & the dog flea being the most common. They are black or sometimes brown in colour & about 1-6mm in length. Cat fleas are much more common, which are found upon dogs and cats.
“Grass Fleas” & “Sand Fleas”
A common urban myth is that there are “sand fleas” and “grass fleas”. All fleas live off hosts, and could not survive just living in grass or sand without a host. The real culprits are cat fleas lying in these places after their pet has shaken off onto the ground.
The best way to get rid of fleas is to regularly wash your pets in a safe, residual flea shampoo. Regular vacuuming flea-infested areas helps, but in most case of heavy infestations, you will need to get in a professional.
If these nasty, itching pests are a problem for you, please call us without delay on 0417 251 911, or fill in form for a free quote and advice about fleas and Pest Control Sydney Metro
Fleas are jumping insects without any wings. They have flattened body, with hooks on their hairy legs so that they can slip through & grip onto their human and animal hosts. Their powerful hind-legs have resilin which is like rubber in their joints.
All they have to do to get around is compress these legs & quickly release them. Using this method, they can jump up to 20cms and up to 35cm horizontally. This is over 150 times their body length!
A person with the same jumping power could jump on top of Ayres Rock!
Female fleas may lay up to around 25 eggs daily, & have over 800 offspring in a lifetime. Their eggs will hatch between five & fourteen days & then becoming larvae. The larvae are blind & also leg-less. They feed upon dried blood from the host & other organic matter such as dried skin. After another two to three weeks, the larvae will be fully grown, & and will then become pupae.
How they will greet you after you return from holidays!
Whenever vibrations or even heat is sensed, the pupa will emerge as an adult and begin biting and feeding off the host. This may take from two or three weeks, or in rare cases over a year. This is why after you return from holidays & enter your home, you are suddenly bitten by large amounts of fleas. Sound familiar?
FLEA CONTROL: Flea Guarantee
If you follow all of our directions over the phone, and of those given to you onsite by our technician, we may offer you a rock solid guarantee of satisfaction! Please inquire about this offer at any time by calling us on 0417 251 911, or fill in the form.
Fleas are firstly controlled by shampooing your pet with a safe, residual insecticide. Your vet may have recommended a very safe insecticide called pyrethrin, but this will only last a day.
The shampoos we recommend contain “Permethrin”, which are technically called a synthetic pyrethroid. There will last a lot longer and aren’t as dangerous and smelly as are other Organo-phosphates such as Diazinon & Maldison.
Tip: Look at the active ingredients section at the front of the bottle or can. Always follow the application and safety directions on any flea pest control product.
We recommend that you shampoo your pets every 2 weeks in the summertime and about every month in winter.
Preparing your home for flea treatmen.
On the day of treatment, these things should be done before we get there:
- Remove all children & pets from the areas about to be sprayed
- To get the maximum benefit of the treatment, remove all objects from the floor & lawn areas
- We cannot spray long grass, as it will not get to the ground area that needs to be treated. Mow lawns & hose dry areas to get the eggs to the surface. This will also help keep the evaporating effect of the insecticide down.
- Vacuuming all floor areas and carpet, especially skirting boards & under furniture & cushions. Vacuum bags can be discarded or sprayed with common fly spray in order to kill any adult fleas captured within the bag.
- BLOCK OFF AREAS FROM ENTRY BY PETS
This is vital for long-term protection. If your pet is going under the house carrying fleas, these will be dropped into the soil. We cannot flood the area to get to where they are breeding, as the amount of pesticide that is need would be dangerous to your pet and to yourself.So the answer to permanent flea relief is to block entry permanently so that your pet cannot enter. I’m sorry, but that is the ONLY answer. Otherwise it will be an endless cycle of fleas being killed outside, and being picked up again when your pet goes underneath your house.
- The bedding of your pets is to be thoroughly washed or thrown away prior to treatment
- An Insect Growth Regulator (or I.G.R.) may also be used in tablets which are added to your pet’s food. You can get I.G.R.s from your vet. A common trade names are called “Programme” or “Pro-ban.”
- After our treatment your pet should be washed again ASAP after the treatment with shampoo or a residual flea powder.
If you use these simple methods will get your pet and home flea-free within just a few days in minor infestations, to about one month in more severe cases.
Is YOUR home protected? Remember A1 Pest Control for your home’s complete termite and flea pest control systems.
Call us today on 0417 251 911 or send us a message today for advice or free quotes!
Article by Bruce Gow
Flea Control Methods
Effective flea control often relies on the well-directed application of chemical insecticides and/or insect growth regulators, backed up by procedures that the client undertakes to help make the environment less suitable for the development of fleas. Where pet animals are concerned, their role as carriers od adult fleas not be overlooked.
Non-chemical methods of prevention and control
Cleanliness is an important prerequisite to flea control. All floor areas should be thouroughly and frequently washed, swept or, in the case of carpets, vacuumed or steam-cleaned. Particular attention should be paid to less disturbed areas (e.g. carpet edges and under furniture). As well, other areas that may harbour eggs, larvae, pupae or adults should be thoroughly cleaned, including upholstered furniture and, in particular, areas favoured be pets for resting or sleeping. The contents of the vacuum cleaner should be incinerated or sprayed with an aerosol insecticid. Keeping pets outside may reduce flea problems indoors, but their presence may still be obvious out of doors. Dry subfloor areas should, where possible, be made inaccessible to pets and other animals, as they often offer a very suitable environment for flea-breeding. As well, the exclusion or rats from premises may reduce the likelihood of flea problems.
Flea control is a complex problem, but with the co-operation of the homeowner (and the pet) fleas can almost become a rare event. By inspecting the premisis and/or questioning the occupants, the technician should gain some idea of the extent of the infestation. Attention to outdoor and subfloor areas is required. Where pet animals are involved, their role in carrying fleas must be considered. If possible, pets should be treated at the same time as the premisis, to reduce the likelihood of reinfestation from adults carried on pets. Do not undertake treatment of pets yourself; if anything at all happens to the pet irrespective of its unlikely result of flea treatment, you could be blamed for it. The pet owner should perform the treatment, or the animal may be taken to a vet or pet wash professional for de-fleaing. In any case, only products specifically registered for flea control on pets should be used. These may be powder formulations ar washes. Even if the treatment is entirely successful in killing all the adult fleas on the animal, reinfestation is usually only a matter of a short time if the pet is allowed to range widely or mix with other pets away from the home. some pet owners seek longer-term protection of pets from adult fleas with insecticidal collars or with a program of ingestion of a systemic insecticide. Pet owners should consult their vet about matters dealing with the direct treatment of their pets. Improvements in the treatment of pets against fleas have seen a significant reduction in the amount of flea control work undertaken by pest control operators. Thorough vacuuming of the premisis, prior to treatment with insecticides, can be adventageous. If the client willingly does this, it is advisable that the contents of the vacuum cleaner be incinerated or sprayed with an appropriate insecticide. Some types of insecticide formulations and methods of application are summarised as follows:
Surface spraying – The types of insecticides most commonly used in flea control are organophosphorus, carbamate, synthetic pyrethroids and IGRs as emulsifiable concentrates, wettable powders or suspention concentrates. These materials may have a residual life of up to a few months, depending on conditions. As carpets and rugs must be treated indoors, the choice of an insecticide with low manmalian toxicity is clearly desirable. Indoors, surfaces treated should, within safety constrains, include all surfaces that may harbour eggs, larvae, pupae or adults. Typically, carpets, rugs, areas under rugs, crevices in upholstered furniture, floorboard cracks and wall-floor joints may all require attention. Outdoor areas and subfloor areas may require attention. It is sometimes advisable to wet such areas with a hose prior to penetrate into dry, dusty soil.
Dusting – Dusts, though not often used in flea control, can be useful for the treatment of areas where spraying is difficult or dangerous. The treatment of roof or wall voids and basements can, if necessary or appropriate, be carried out using dust formulations. Present a complex problem and effective treatment will rely on the co-operation of the occupants. Steps to consider include.
1. Determining the extent of flea activity.
2. Arranging treatment of pets (for adult flea control).
3. Advising thorough vacuuming and cleaning.
4. Applying insecticides carefully, aiming at all the possible habitats that larvae or other stages may infest.
5. Advising the occupants of the importance of regular attention to pets and the importance of cleanliness in the home.
Once the premises and surrounds have been cleaned and treated at the same time as the pets have been treated, and provided the pets have been restricted from the treated areas, control should be established within a week or two. Heavily infested or chronically infested homes may take longer to fully gain control and may need additional treatments at an additional expense. This is a scenario that doesn’t suit every homeowner but, once the vet advises on the most appropriate systemic flea control, the pets are likely to bring home fewer adults that will survive to establish a new infestation. If you have a current flea infestation, it it is not unusual to take 2-3 months to gain 100% control. No insecticide can instantly kill eggs or pupae. See http://www.pestproducts.com/controlfleas.htm. A lot of clients assume that 100% effectiveness should be obtained immediately after treatment, and this is simply not the case unless it is an early, light occurrence of fleas.
To hasten the effectiveness of our insecticidal management, we incorporate IGRs (insect Growth Regulators) which inhibit the moulting process and breaks the breeding cycles. At all times, our main goal is to protect you, your family, pets and the environment.